more pictures and Ravelry-link
Yarn: 11 x 100 g Colinette One Zero, shade 162 Wasabi Squeeze (100 g = 95 m, 100 % pure wool). Note for yarn substituting: only a little over 1 kg was used.
Tension: 16 sts, 20 rows = 10 cm
Needles and crochet hook: according to your hand to get the tension
Size: bust 96 cm, waist 90 cm, hem 106 cm, about a medium size. Length 71 cm.
Other: 4 buttons
Back: cast on 86 sts. Knit 16 rows in garter st and 2 rows in reverse stockinette st. Continue in reverse stockinette st and decrease on the next row 1 st in both ends inside 18 sts from the side edge (= p 18, p 2 tog, purl until 20 sts left, p 2 tog, p 18 ). Repeat the decrease row every 8th row, 6 times in total = 74 sts. The height of the back is 27 cm (60 rows). Work 14 rows. Increase on the next row 1 st in both ends inside 17 sts from the side edge. Repeat the increase row after 12 rows (78 sts). Work until the height of the back is 45 cm (96 rows).
Start the armhole decreases: cast off 3 sts in the beginning of next 2 rows. Continue decreasing every 2nd row: 2 x 2 sts, 2 x 1 st **, = 60 sts. Work 8 rows, then knit 1 row, 3 rows in rev.stockinette st, knit 1 row, 2 rows in rev.stockinette st, purl 2 rows, knit 3 rows (30 rows). Knit 20 rows in garter st (50 rows). The height of the armhole is about 21,5 cm (note: garter st contracts vertically, so measure a bit strectched-out).
** = work the 1 st decrease in the end of the row by working 2 sts tog. If your knitting tension hand is loose, a corresponding 1 st decrease can be made also in the end of the previous row, this makes the armhole edge smoother (= 2 sts dec every 2nd row = 2 x 1 st dec on every row).
Shoulder: cast off 9 sts in the beginning of the next 2 rows, work 2 tog in the end of the latter row, on the next row work 2 tog, cast off 7 sts (= shoulder 18 sts), work 2 tog in the end of the row, on the next row 2 tog, cast off the rest of the sts. Mark the end of the shoulder at 18 sts from the edge. The neck opening is 24 sts wide.
Front (left): cast on 47 sts. Knit 39 sts in garter st., 8 sts in moss st for 16 rows (the moss st is in the front edge). Continue by working 39 sts in rev.stockinette st, 8 sts in moss st. Row 19: (16 rows in garter st + 2 rows in rev.st.st) decrease 1 st (purl 2 tog) inside inside 18 sts from the side edge. Repeat the decrease row every 8th row, 6 times in total = 41 sts (60 rows). Work 14 rows. Increase on the next row 1 st inside 17 sts from the side edge. Repeat the increase row after 12 rows (43 sts). Work until the height of the back is 45 cm (96 krs).
Start the armhole decreases and the lapel increases: (row 1) cast off 3 sts in the beginning of the row and increase 1 st inside the moss st border on the same row: work in the front and back of in the 1st moss st stitch according to the moss st pattern (= 9 sts in moss st). Continue decreasing every 2nd row: 2 x 2 sts, 2 x 1 st **. Row 11: repeat the moss st increase on the row, = 36 sts. Continue in the pattern so that on the next right side row and every 4th row the pattern of the last st in reverse stockinette st is changed into moss st (= the point where moss st and rev.st. st meet moves after every 4 rows). Work in the front edge (in moss st) short rows for the lapel: on row 26 (30, 32, 34) : work 12 (13, 10, 14) sts from the front edge (on the reverse side), take the yarn to the front, lift 1 st, take the yarn to the back and lift the st back to the left needle, turn. Work the stitches until the front edge, turn and continue as usual with all sts. The yarn wrapped around the stitch in the middle of the row at the turning point is worked together with the stitch, rather so, that the wrap stays on the right side (remains under the lapel) or otherwise unnoticeable.
Neck and shoulder: row 38: cast off 14 sts from the front edge. Row 39: work the last 2 sts together. Row 40: 2 tog, cast off 2 sts, work into the end of the row, 18 sts remain. Work 2 rows (42 rows). The height of the armhole is about 21,5 cm. Row 43: cast off 9 sts in the beginning of the row, work 2 tog in the end of the next row, on the next row 2 tog, cast off 7 sts (= shoulder 18 sts).
Make the right front as a mirror image of the left front. Make the buttonholes every 19th row on the row 42, 61, 80 and 99 (alternatively every 20th row starting on the row 39). The buttonhole should be made according to the wanted button size. My knitting hand is loose and I worked the 4.th and 5th st together (counting from the edge), yo, and working the yo twisted on the next row.
Chart: the 12 rows are repeated. The stitches are shown as they are on the right side. E.g. the key "k" means knit on the right side, and purl on the reverse side.
The cable key:
A = cross 3 sts on the back, knit 3, work the crossed 3 sts in moss st.
B = cross 3 sts on the front, work 3 sts in moss st, knit the 3 crossed sts.
Sleeve:cast on 54 sts. Work 27 sts in moss st, knit 3 sts, 24 sts in moss st. Continue in pattern: 24 sts in moss st, 6 sts in the knitting pattern according to the chart, 24 sts in moss st. Row 5: decrease by working 3 sts tog inside 10 sts from the side edge at both ends of the row. Work 12 rows in total and on the next row change the moss st to garter st except for the charted pattern. Repeat the decreases on row 13, 19 and 25 (every 6th row) by working 4 x 2 tog on one row evenly spreaded, = 40 sts. Work 1 row (reverse side). Purl 3 rows, knit 3 rows, except for the 6 sts in the charted pattern in the middle. Continue in the charted pattern and the other stitches in reverse stockinette st . On the next row increase 1 st inside 4 sts from the side edge at both ends. Repeat the increase row after 8 rows and then every 6th row, 9 times in total, = 58 sts.
When the length of the sleeve is about 45 cm or wanted length, start the underarm decreases. Cast off at both ends of a row at side edges every 2nd row 3 sts, 3 x 2 sts, 7 x 1 st, 2 sts, 3 sts (21 sts in total), 16 sts remain. Continue by working 3 sts in garter st , 6 sts in the charted pattern, 3 sts in garter st, in total 30 rows (11 cm shoulder band). Cast off.
Attach the side seams of the fronts and the back and the sleeves. Attach the shoulder seams to the shoulder bands, set in the sleeve tops. The top of the sleeve is fed at the top of the shoulder and at the arm pit, while the body is fed elsewhere. The feeding is easier, when the corresponding edge of the other attached piece is stretched while seaming. The setting in of the sleeve can be made easier by fitting the sleeve top under the edge of the armhole of the body with pins just overlapping the amount needed to be able to pin the pieces together. Try on and check the fit.
Collar: pick up 13 sts from the front lapel edge facing the reverse side starting at inside 11 sts from the front edge up to shoulder seam, 10 sts from the end of the sleeve band facing the right side, 1 sts from the seam (this extra st is decreased on the next row), 24 sts from the neck of the back, 1 st from the seam (this extra st is decreased on the next row), 10 sts from the top of the sleeve band, and again facing the reverse side 13 sts from the front lapel edge (inside 11 sts) = 72 sts in total.
Work in moss st. Row 1: work 12 sts, T, 8 sts T, 6 sts T, 4 sts T, work the picked stitches until the seam of other front lapel (note: work at the edges of the back neck 2 tog, = 70 sts). 13 picked sts remains: work 9 sts, T, 8 sts, T, 6 sts, T, 4 sts, T, work until the end of the row.
(T = take the yarn to the front, lift 1 st, take the yarn to the back and lift the st back to the left needle, turn.)
Continue in moss st. Row 3 and 5: inside 1 st in both ends of the row increase 2 sts by working in the front and back of the 2nd and the 3rd st, = 78 sts. Row 6: increase 2 sts at the sleeve bands and 2 times at the back neck (if you prefer a more tight-fitting collar / the collar to rise higher behind the neck, don’t do these increases), = 86 sts. Row 17: inside 1 st in both ends of the row increase 2 sts by working in the front and back of the 2nd and the 3rd st and work short rows with the last 21 sts of the both ends of the row (= work 21 sts, T, work until the end of the row). Cast off when working the row 19.
In order to keep the shoulder line in shape despite the weight of the garment, crochet slip st on the reverse side at the shoulder seam of the back (the seam of the shoulder band) so that the crocheted sts don’t stretch very much and keep the length of the shoulder seam correct. Continue in double crochet (single crochet in American) after the shoulder seam at the seam of the collar and the back neck (the cast off sts of the neck opening of the back) until the beginning of the other shoulder seam. The shoulder seams of the fronts can also be reinforced in the same way.
Pocket: cast on 25 sts. Work in garter st. In the end of row 3 and 4 pick 2 sts from the side edge, = 29 sts. Decrease 1 st on the row 17 and 29 in the both ends of the row, at first inside 1 st, then in the end of the row by knitting 2 tog, = 25 sts. After 44 rows, work 12 rows in moss st and cast off. (The size of the pocket is sbout 15,5 x 18 cm.)
Attach the pockets onto the bottom of the fronts below the waist line, about 18 rows from the bottom edge. The upper edge of the pocket is about in the middle of the area between the side seam an the inside edge of the button band. Note: the pocket is not completely flat because the picked sts in the bottom form a little corner, a "pouch". The pocket is laid onto the decreases, so it’s not quite parallel to the front edge. The sewing is easiest when made on the right side going around the pocket, stitching the front just underneath the edge of the pocket. The attached width of the upper edge of the pocket should be a bit narrower than the width of the lower edge.
Attach the buttons onto the button band of the left front at the height of the buttonholes.
Ravelry-link
This is the number of sts to cast on for the front and back pieces (e.g. X = 88). The number of shoulder sts can be calculated using this formula: ((X - 84) / 2) + 22 = shoulder (e.g. ((88-84)/2)+22 = 24). Otherwise follow the instructions.
